Textile arts are heading towards success
These thread leaders are following in the footsteps of their elder, artist Sheila Hicks. Thanks to them, embroidery is no longer just recognized as a craft, but is elevated to the rank of art, presented by galleries, fairs and contemporary art festivals. Textile arts are therefore experiencing a new golden age. A selective overview of these new "crochet fairies".
Photo credits: APR - Parisian house - Aurélie Mathigot - At the foot of the sacred hill, 2020 © Parisian house - 1
1/ Audrey Demarre
Mapping the sensitive, as she says. But also mending pieces of the past, imagining new worlds, transmitting them as the couturieres of her family. And now to pull a thread to infinity on the great digital canvas. On Instagram, with nearly 100 subscribers, Audrey Demarre puts her magic fingers, and her talent, at the service of other women, her son's sisters, all textile artists. The embroiderer self-taught, former publisher of fine books, has brought together around fifty of these creators in a magnificent work published this summer. With infinite poetry, an invitation to explore these free universes. Just as the destinies of women like Frida Kahlo, Lee Miller, Georgia O'Keefe inspire her… Audrey Demarre works on demand on carte blanche.
-His latest project? The beautiful book “Embroideries, anthologie curieux” published by Éditions Lamartinière.
-His next projects? A large embroidered headboard on the theme of "lichens and mosses" for individuals and an order of unique pieces for a Japanese department store (work overalls and jackets found and embroidered with trompe l'oeil: brooches, medals, badges). And what's next? Two new collaborations with the brand Prestic Ouiston and another with the fashion brand Jane Gustavsson.
-See his works? instagram.com/audreydemarre/
2/ Camille Mugnier
If you look for her, you will find her on a transhumance path in Spain, following a flock of sheep or chatting with a sheep shearer grandpa. After having made a series of weavings from paper and vegetable dye, Camille Mugnier works to weave links between ancestral practices and contemporary art, at least hers, sublime large-format pieces that are as light to the eye as they are powerful to the touch. It is no surprise that the young woman went through the Corderie Royale de Rochefort to draw inspiration from the knotting techniques of sailors or to imagine reflections between her works and the lenses of lighthouses. Close to the earth and the living, she also lived for a long time at the Ferme de Brouage, in Charente Maritime, a market gardening paradise and a surprisingly inspiring place for agroecology.
-His latest project? A “Wool and Creation” residency at the Casa de Velazquez in Madrid, in partnership with the Mobilier National and the ADGP in Paris, then an exhibition starting on November 13 at the same Casa.
-His next project? Continuing his series “Presence in Absence”, using a needle painting technique.
-See his works? On the island of Ré or in Minorca at the Thierry Bertrand Gallery
-And more : instagram.com/camille.mugnier/ et millo-millo.com
3/ Aurélie Mathigot
Photography freezes a moment of reality that the embroiderer will transform as she pleases. Aurélie Mathigot thus weaves a thread between the two mediums, photography and textiles. Delicately beautiful, her works bring depth to the instant t of the shot. And it is also thanks to this dimension of time that each of her works gains in material. Embroidering, beading, crocheting by machine or by hand, in a palette of colors, in cotton, linen, silk thread. Nothing is immediate in the connection, her work seems to tell us. Everyday objects are sometimes added to her compositions. A way of demonstrating that the sum of the parts becomes, in her hands, greater than the whole.
-His latest project? An oversized work entitled “Homage to Calais” presented last April in the exhibition “15 years, 15 artists, 15 works” at the Maison Parisienne gallery.
-See his works? At the showroom of the Parisian House. The gallery will also exhibit them in Brussels in January, at Pad Paris in April and Révélations in May.
-And more : instagram.com/mathigotaurelietextualab/
Aurélie Mathigot © Eugène Leroux
4/ Lily Alcaraz and Léa Berlier
Lily and Léa meet on the benches of Duperré in section textile design. Both have, through their family, a passion for thread. The rest of their shared journey is woven at ENSCI, where the duo learns to cross textile with other materials, paper, leather, wood... Lily Alcaraz and Berlier's weavings compose abstract landscapes to hang or cover the floor, seats, walls, or even come to life on fashion accessories. The creative approach of this sacred duo is part of a reflection on material, pattern and color. Their unique pieces take shape on their looms in their Parisian workshop.
-Their latest project? The exhibition "Weaving – Traditions meets innovation" at the Handxerk gallery in Munich where they present pieces made of materials such as wood, leather, felt, in order to illustrate alongside other artists the blending of ancestral practices with current techniques. Until November 16.
-Their next project? In collaboration with designer Pierre Charrié and cabinetmaker Jean-Brieuc Chevalier, they explore woven materials of threads and wood as well as their applications in the field of objects and furniture. The result of this research will be presented at the Révélations exhibition. A project that received the support of the CNAP.
-See their works? At the next Révélations biennial at the Grand Palais (Paris) from May 21 to 25, 2025. Their workshop at 50 rue Saint-Blaise in the 20th arrondissement of Paris is open to professionals by appointment only.
-And more ? instagram.com/lilyalcaraz_leaberlier/ et lilyetlea.fr. To take an online course “Experimenting with Colors, Patterns and Materials”, domestika.org
© Florent Mulot
5/ Jeanne Vicérial
Artist-seamstress and researcher, Jeanne Vicérial invented the “Knitting” method during her fashion studies, based on the observation that today it is up to women to fit into the sizes imposed by thetextile industry and not the reverse. How to restore the body to its rightful place ? The creator developed this technique inspired by human muscle weaving using a curved needle similar to that used in surgery. This was followed by a doctoral thesis with the mechatronics department of the École des Mines ParisTech.
-His latest project? The exhibition “Before seeing the day” at the Musée du Vieux Nîmes until November 24 and the installation “Without waiting for the birth of the day” at Soulages museum until November 3, in Rodez. Jeanne Vicérial is in residence in Kyoto at the Villa Kujoyama until the end of December 2024.
-See her works? She is represented by the Templon gallery.
-And more ? jeannevicerial.com et instagram.com/jeanne_vicerial
Exhibition Views by Adrien Millot
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