You may have already spotted it on the wrist of First Lady Brigitte Macron or actress Vanessa Guide: the Herbelin Antares Interchangeables model. Launched in 2000, it is now one of the brand's best-sellers. A benchmark among the 400 watches that the French watchmaker produces in its workshops in Charquemont, in the Doubs region, the brand's birthplace. Created in 1947 by Michel Herbelin – whose name it bore until 2022 – it embodies his commitment to offering timepieces that combine quality and precision, intended for the luxury market but offered at more affordable prices than its competitors. " Our goal has always been to do as well as the others, but more accessible ," explains Cédric Gomez Montiel, the company's CEO.

The latter accompanies the third generation of Herbelin at the head of the company, which now has 130 employees, two subsidiaries (in Germany and the United Kingdom) and a presence in 37 countries. Like the company itself and the watches it produces, its know-how has been passed down from generation to generation, in particular thanks to the apprentices who joined the Franche-Comté workshop over the decades. 

Learning, an essential part of the brand mechanism

Coming largely from the Edgar Faure High School in Morteau, these young people stay with the company after graduation and, in turn, train new recruits, perpetuating the artisanal manufacturing process so dear to the brand. " We pass on the technique and the passion, and we do everything we can to ensure these apprentices stay with us ," says Cédric Gomez Montiel. This strategy seems to be paying off, as some work there until their retirement.

“ We take on between six and eight apprentices each year ,” he explains. “ That represents about 25% of our workforce. They come to us for a minimum of three to five years, as they sometimes continue their vocational training certificate (CAP) with a vocational arts diploma (BMA) and then a national diploma in arts and design (DN MADE) .” According to the company’s managing director, this enthusiasm is unlikely to wane anytime soon. It must be said that the workshop enjoys an ideal location, situated in the heart of the Franche-Comté region’s watchmaking country, near the Swiss border. “ Everyone inevitably has someone close to them who works in watchmaking, and this will continue to inspire vocations .”

The last watchmaker made in France

Whether quartz, automatic, or mechanical, mass-produced or even custom-made, each Herbelin watch is individually assembled with meticulous care and constant quality control. " It's like mechanical surgery ," summarizes the company's CEO, adding that each timepiece undergoes 62 checkpoints before being sold. Attention to precision, 100% handcrafted production… and yet the workshop manages to produce between 250 and 450 watches per day, and between 70,000 and 80,000 per year. This pace makes Herbelin the last major watchmaker "made in France" to produce such a volume.

The components assembled in Charquemont come from all over the world, particularly from Switzerland for the movements and dials. The leather straps are supplied by a French partner. The workshop also has a repair service, illustrating its commitment to creating true timepieces that last for generations. " We are sometimes asked to repair watches that are over 30 years old, and it's truly very rewarding. These are often first communion gifts, graduation gifts… objects with strong sentimental value that the owners want to maintain and pass down ."

An opening to new segments and horizons 

True to its values ​​and respect for craftsmanship, Herbelin is also attentive to changing times, markets and trends. The year 2022 marked a major shift for the brand: in addition to the abandonment of its founder's first name (with a view to better internationalization), the house also opened its very first "flagship", a showcase store for the brand, in Paris, rue Bonaparte. “Very proud,” says Cédric Gomez Montiel. In July, the company also acquired MRC Group, notably the owner of Jourdan Bijoux, opening the doors to men's jewelery which Herbelin wishes to move towards, in parallel with its historic watchmaking activity. 

Herbelin's ambitions now extend to exports – and more specifically to China, a country where the company intends to "double, or even triple, its efforts." In this endeavor, it is supported by Bpifrance through an export prospecting insurance contract. Currently actively seeking partners, the brand aims to quickly establish a subsidiary and make it fully operational. " We want to demonstrate to our Chinese counterparts our commitment to establishing a long-term presence in the country ," concludes the CEO.